About
Build log for an RV-10

By
Jae Chang
web@jline.com

Contents (Index)
These are links to the major kits for the project.

Section 43: Cabin Overhead Console

Finally, the final paint of the overhead console. The first paint sample was perfect, a beigish color. Unfortunately, when I went to get the final paint, I got something a bit more yellow - big bird!

Oh well, will have to live with it now!

I also had to work out the transition between the overhead console and the baggage compartment. This turned out to be quite a headache. Ultimately, i decided to make another part like a fairing, that will just screw onto the overhead console and fill in the gap.

posted at: 10:39 | path: /aviation/build/airframe/fuselage/sec43 | permanent link to this entry | add a comment

Section 43: Cabin Attach

The cabin top was finally permanently attached. Used a flox and cabosil mixture to fill in the gaps. I wasn't sure about the right order of steps, but in retrospect, this should be the proper order.

I decided to apply a thin spread of proseal onto the rear part of the cabin area, where all the pop rivets go. This was just to ensure weatherproofing in this area. Plans didn't call for it.

1. Masked off all areas.

2. Lightly paint resin on all the mating parts. Let that dry for a slight bit.

3. I wasn't sure how effective buttering up the flox mixture onto mating surfaces would be. It might just end up making a mess. I did butter up mating surfacse a slight bit.

4. Position cabin top in place and run all of the #8 and #10 bolts and screws through both parts. Because the epoxy will run all into the threads and make running the nuts on difficult later, I installed all of the nuts.

I didn't tighten the nuts too much - just enough until I felt the first bit of resistance.

5. This is one of the last but most important steps that I did NOT do but wish I had. I actually already fitted my doors. I have not done the door guides, yet. I should have let the cabin top cure, with the door in position with the door guides in place. This way, I would ensure a better fitting cabin door frame to door.

Now in retrospect, I see that in one of the corners, the flox mixture may have allowed the door frame to narrow a slight bit. I will have to narrow the door guides i have in order to compensate for the slightly narrow door frames now.

posted at: 10:31 | path: /aviation/build/airframe/fuselage/sec43 | permanent link to this entry | add a comment

Geoff Combs Carbon Fiber Panel

A few photos of a carbon fiber panel.

posted at: 20:19 | path: /aviation/build/avionics/panel | permanent link to this entry | add a comment

Avionics Photos

posted at: 20:16 | path: /aviation/build/avionics/photos | permanent link to this entry | add a comment

Section 43: Cabin Top Sanding

More filling, sanding and smoothing.

This is probably the 2nd coat of epoxy primer and rage filler. Ready for another primer coat and another cycle.

posted at: 19:54 | path: /aviation/build/airframe/fuselage/sec43 | permanent link to this entry | add a comment

Section 20: Bottom Wing Skins - Pitot Mount

Another one of those jobs, I decided to take another look at. I always regretted getting the SaveAir pitot mount over the Gretz. The Gretz mount is already pre-drilled with its mounting screw holes.

I had to drill all the holes in the Safeair mount. Of course, i was slightly off, causing the pitot to be at an angle.

I bit the bullet and decided to enlarge the #6 screw holes and reposition the nutplates. This time, I got it much much closer to alignment, which is perpendicular to the spar rivet holes.

Then I started looking at where I had put the pitot heat control box. It was 1 in from the most outboard rib. On the positive, the control wires can easily reach the pitot.

However, when the bottom skin is on, you have to reach across an entire bay to get to the control box. I thought why not just mount the control box on the outboard rib. The main sacrifice is having to extend the wiring to the pitot.

Also, I ran all the pitot lines with enough slack, to allow me to remove the pitot and disconnect the static and aoa lines. However, the stock wiring, would not allow you to disconnect the wiring. They had to be extended anyway.

Yet to do, make those wire extensions.

I asked Dynon if they have an extension wire already available, and they replied no and to check Digikey for the connector.

I'll probably just splice the wires instead.

posted at: 19:49 | path: /aviation/build/airframe/wings/sec20 | permanent link to this entry | add a comment

Section 19: Stall Warning System

One of the things I dislike most about my build, is when i leave things uncompleted for some reason. I realized now that the stall warning wiring had not yet been done, even though my fuel tanks were already attached.

This means I have to do all of the stall warning work through the wing access panel, instead of having access to it from the side where the fuel tank is now.

The stall warning vane was mostly already there. I tightened up some of the screws.

As far as the wiring goes, I spent much too much time deciding how to secure the wiring. The quickest solution would be to use one of the adhesive tie mounts. However, I have heard those mounts fall off after a while, mostly due to temperature. Since I will hardly access this area, i decided to use another method.

I drilled a #30 hole around the lightening hole and ran a tie wrap through it to hold the wiring.

Then for the tie wrap near the stall warning vane, I wrapped it in this rubber self fusing tape. This gave the tie wrap something to hold on to and will keep the wiring from moving around so much.

posted at: 19:38 | path: /aviation/build/airframe/wings/sec19 | permanent link to this entry | add a comment

Section 33: Baggage Area

I am getting closer. It has been over 13 months since my last update to this section. That is scary!

After much debate on conduit, I decided to just go overboard and add 4 conduit tubes to each side. There is easily enough room to add them, and if they remain empty and unused, so be it. I have no clue how many will be used or allocated.

I also discovered that the access holes for the step bolt, are located directly behind the permanently riveted access covers on both left and right sides. Thus, I decided to make these access covers removeable by installing nutplates. This was a major time waster, unfortunately. However, my goal is to complete the baggage floor areas, so i can move on and get to attaching the canopy top some day.

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posted at: 16:59 | path: /aviation/build/airframe/fuselage/sec33 | permanent link to this entry | add a comment

Section 34: Baggage Door

I did not do a good job keeping up with updates in this section. It probably spanned a good year. However, the baggage door came out reasonably well, after a lot of careful thought.

I did deviate from plans and replaced riveting the hinge to the airframe structure with nutplates and #6 screws.

There was one thing I wish I could do over again. If you look very very carefully at the door hinge, the hinge sticks away from the skin at the top of the hinge, more than at the bottom. This came about, when first drilling the hinge rivet holes into the door frame. You HAVE to be extremely careful and exact here. Doing it by eye was clearly not smart.

Small variations here create a much large effect. Anyway, it came out okay in the end and is only slightly noticeable. The door now has a tendency to swing open, but that is not a bad side-effect.

The door lock i got from Home Depot. The Van's door latch was too thick for the lock i got, so I had to modify the one that came with the lock.

posted at: 16:55 | path: /aviation/build/airframe/fuselage/sec34 | permanent link to this entry | add a comment

Section 34 Photos: Baggage Door

posted at: 16:51 | path: /aviation/build/airframe/fuselage/photos/sec34 | permanent link to this entry | add a comment